After a short flight to Buenos Aires from Bariloche we were in warmer territory. Finally. The great thing about flying up to BA was that we got some fantastic views of the Andean mountains. We wouldn’t have got the same view flying up from El Calafate (the original plan). We are trying to look at the positive side of things right now.
We also didn’t have any luggage to check-in for our flight which was a first & I’m sure a last for us.
It was great to be back in a warmer climate where we didn’t need to wear sweaters or long pants. We had 5 nights before catching out flight back to the Great White North (or Canada). While both of us were still a little on edge especially since we had heard there was a lot of petty crime in BA, but we with not more to lose we wanted to see as much of the city as we could.
We were staying in a hostel on the edge of a neighbourhood called Palermo Soho – ‘yuppyville’ according to everything we read. One our first day we set out to walk around the neighbourhood looking for shorts for Dan & possibly bathing suits for both of us.
After we managed to find shorts for Dan we grabbed something to eat at what turned out to be a fantastic restaurant called Bar 6. Amazing food – it was great to be in an area with restaurants similar to those we were used to in London – a little familiarity can be a good thing especially after being robbed! After lots of fresh juice we spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the shops and eyeing up all the restaurants. More positives – we are going to eat well here.
The next day we went into Palermo Soho for breakfast and then to look for a yoga studio I had read about in a NYT article – 36 hours in Buenos Aires (http://travel.nytimes.com/2010/01/31/travel/31hours.html). After checking out the schedule we walked thru a few of the city’s parks and the onto the Evita museum. It was a small museum, but still interesting to walk thru – and they had air conditioning too! That night we headed out to an Indian vegetarian restaurant (also in Palermo Soho) which served some interesting food & had even more interesting decor. We sat on low stools which proved to be a little difficult for tall Dan. There were lots of Hindu statues and posters around the restaurant; it was run by a very hippy Indian family. Good food, but not good enough to go back to.
On Saturday we headed over to the yoga studio for the 12:30 class. Dan decided not to join and to look around for a hostel for when we came back. He managed to look around 2 different places in Palermo Soho (if you couldn’t tell this was our favourite area in own), had something to eat and then came to pick me up after class. The yoga class was good – in Spanish, but for the most part it was easy enough to just look at everyone one in the class to figure out what was going on. It was a regular Ashtanga class, but with the windows open it was a bit warmer than normal. One girl in the class actually passed out doing a back bend. Drinking water during the class was encouraged! After Dan picked me up we headed upstairs so I could eat something at another restaurant that we had read about. I ordered what I thought would be a nice salad, and somehow I misread the menu you and ended up with a salad bowl half full or shredded carrots. I really do not like carrots so unfortunately I had to order something else instead. Note to self: make sure to read the menus more carefully or translate words I don’t know! After lunch we walked past the zoo and over to the rose gardens in another area of town. The gardens were very well looked after and they even had ladies walking around with megaphones yelling at people for walking or sitting on the grass or when kids were trying to climb trees. We saw some tons of roses and enjoyed the shade of the oldest tree in Buenos after the long walk over.
When we were done relaxing we headed to the Recoleta area of town which is the most affluent area of town and also where the famous Recoleta cemetery is (we’re going to visit when we come back). We finally got to Sirop Folie for afternoon tea which had also been recommended in the NYT article. We had some nice sandwiches, cake and some great tea. The idea is since Portinos (as the people living in Buenos are called) usually don’t eat dinner until around 9 or 10pm then it’s best to have a snack late in the afternoon to tie you over. This did the job well! We only needed some empanadas later fo dinner – which were fantastic!!
The following day we headed into the centre of town to walk around past all the main squares and then on to explore the markets in the San Telmo neighbourhood. After exploring the endless markets we stopped so that Dan could grab a steak at a hole in the wall restaurant recommended in Lonely Planet. Apparently we weren’t the only ones following the recommendation – the place was packed. And there was great baked provolone cheese (the non-beef eater’s grill choice) and (according to Dan) great steak and of course great wine and all for cheap. We then passed a huge Starbucks which is the best place to go for clean bathrooms so we hung out for a bit, enjoyed the air conditioning and used the free wifi.
It was Superbowl day as well so we headed back into Palermo Soho to a bar run by American’s that was packed, had 2 big screen tvs & wings (they weren’t Lindsay’s fantastic wings, but still a nice treat). Back to the hostel afterwards to pack our bags... and actually to just relax since we were ‘travelling light’. J
Monday was our flight home. We were looking forward to our big comfy bed & a shower we didn’t need to share with lots of other people! We had time to head back to Bar 6 so that Dan could grab another steak and some of their amazing mashed potatoes before heading out to the airport.
See you in two weeks Buenos!